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Once there, I knew I had only the dangerous couloir to face.
He followed the actual top edge of the band, which led at a very slightly uphill angle into and across the big couloir.
We will then climb a short easy angled snow couloir before traversing right, across the face, toward a small group of seracs.
Access is further complicated by a hanging serac and ice couloir that regularly spew rock and ice down the approach slopes.