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Behemoths like Gallo and Mondavi are struggling to shed their reputations of plonk vendors as legions of smaller growers are concentrating on making a quality product.
It's easy to put a bottle of plonk in a brown paper bag and tie a string around the neck but that has issues.
Previously considered plonk, winemakers have come to recognize consumer demand for quality box wines.
Knowing my luck, the slabs will turn up, eat the lot, and then bugger off as I plonk my box down!
In addition, 371 million bottles of Italian plonk will go the same way.